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AUTO |
Insurance Education |
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Basics
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Types of
Coverage
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Vehicle
Safety
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Fraud
Prevention
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Glossary |
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The
Basics
An auto insurance
policy is actually a package of different coverages. Most states require you to
purchase a minimum amount of certain kinds of coverage. But if you're interested
in protecting yourself from a lawsuit or from wicked repair bills, then it makes
sense to buy more than what's required.
Liability Insurance
Liability coverage is the foundation of any auto insurance policy, and is
required in most states. If you are at fault in an accident, your
liability insurance will pay for the bodily injury and property damage
expenses caused to third parties in the accident, including legal bills.
Bodily injury expenses include medical bills and lost wages. Property
damage expenses pay for the repair or replacement of things you wrecked.
The third party may also decide to sue you in order to collect "pain and
suffering" damages.
Remember, if you cause a serious accident, minimum insurance may not
cover you adequately. That's why it's a good idea to buy more than what
your state requires.
Liability Lingo:
Insurance
types usually refer to liability coverage limits as a series of three
numbers. For example, your agent might say that your policy carries
liability limits of 20/40/10. That stands for $20,000 in bodily injury
coverage per person, $40,000 in bodily injury coverage per accident, and
$10,000 in property damage coverage per accident.
Collision And Comprehensive Coverages
Collision
If you cause an accident, collision coverage will pay to repair your
vehicle. You usually can't collect any more than the actual cash value
of your car, which is not the same as the car's replacement cost.
Collision coverage is normally the most expensive component of
auto insurance. By choosing a higher deductible, say $250 or even $500,
you can keep your premium costs down. However, keep in mind that you
must pay the amount of your deductible before the insurance company
kicks in any money after an accident.
Insurance companies often will "total" your car if the repairs the
company must pay exceed what the car is worth.
Comprehensive
Comprehensive coverage will pay for damages to your car that weren't
caused by an auto accident: Damages from theft, fire, vandalism, natural
disasters, or hitting a deer all qualify. Comprehensive coverage also
comes with a deductible and your insurer will only pay as much as the
car was worth when it got wrecked.
Because insurance companies normally will not pay you more than your
car's book value, it's helpful if you have a rough idea of this amount.
Most insurance adjusters use the Kelley Blue Book. The National
Automobile Dealers Association also publishes the Official Used Car
Guide, which is updated each month. If your car is worth less than what
you're paying for the coverage, you're better off not having it.
Replacement Cost vs.
Actual Cash Value:
Replacement cost is the amount it would take to replace your
vehicle or repair damages with materials of similar kind and quality,
without deducting for depreciation. Depreciation is the decrease in
vehicle value because of age or wear and tear.
Actual
cash value (ACV) is the value of your property when it is damaged or
destroyed. Claims adjusters usually figure ACV by taking the replacement
cost and subtracting depreciation. For example, an auto that costs
$5,000 may have a reasonable "life" of
5
years. If it is destroyed after 10 years, its actual cash value will be
substantially less than $5,000 because of depreciation.
Advice:
It's usually better to go with replacement cost coverage. Although the
cost is higher, in most cases the extra protection may be worth it. Make
sure to ask your agent which kind of coverage you have on your auto
policy.
Medical Payments, PIP, And No-Fault Coverages
MedPay
will pay for your and your passengers' medical expenses after an
accident. These expenses can arise from accidents while you're driving
your car, someone else's car (with their permission), and injuries you
or your family members incur when you're pedestrians. The coverage will
pay regardless of who is at fault, but if someone else is liable, your
insurer may seek to recoup the expenses from them.
Personal injury protection (PIP) and broader "no-fault" coverages are
expanded forms of medical payments protection that may be required in
your state. Some states have optional PIP or no fault. Expanded features
include lost wages and payments for child care.
Uninsured/Underinsured Motorists Coverages
Uninsured motorists (UM) coverage pays for your injuries if you're
struck by a hit-and-run driver or someone who doesn't have auto
insurance. It is required in many states.
Underinsured motorists (UIM) coverage will pay out if the driver who hit
you causes more damage than his or her liability coverage can cover. In
some states, UM or UIM coverage will also pay for property damages.
Add-On Features
Several supplemental auto coverages are available, either as separate
premium items or included in augmented policies.
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Rental
reimbursement,
a common add-on, covers vehicle rentals required because your car is
damaged or stolen.
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Coverage for
towing and labor charges in case of a road breakdown
is also common.
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Auto replacement
coverage guarantees car will be completely repaired or replaced,
even if these costs exceed its depreciated value.
For more
in-depth information on auto, health, home and life insurance, visit
insure.com.
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All 50
states have different requirements when it comes to auto insurance. In
some states, motorists can't register a car without showing proof that
they have liability insurance, while other states use an "honor system"
that doesn't ask for proof of insurance until drivers have accidents or
tickets on their records.
Only
five states do not require motorists to carry liability coverage, but
those that do demand that drivers purchase at least the state's minimum.
In other words, if you live in a state that requires liability
insurance, you can't walk into your insurance agent's office and buy
only $2,000 worth of liability coverage. If you're going to buy it, you
must purchase at least the minimum amount required.
How
to read liability limits
The following
information will help you understand the table of liability limits.
First number:
bodily injury liability maximum for one person injured in an accident.
Second number: bodily injury liability maximum for all injuries
in one accident.
Third number: property damage liability maximum for one accident.
So,
looking at the table, you find that in Alabama the minimum liability
limits are $20,000 for injury liability for one person in an accident,
$40,000 for all injuries in an accident, and $10,000 for property damage
in an accident.
What
is no-fault?
Some states have
"no-fault" laws, meaning your auto policy must pay medical bills for
injuries suffered in an auto accident regardless of who caused the
accident. The laws were enacted in an attempt to reduce auto-injury
fraud and keep insurance cost down.
State |
Liability
required? Liability minimums (in
thousands of dollars) |
PIP required? |
No-fault
state? |
Uninsured
motorist coverage required? |
Alabama |
Yes, 20/40/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Alaska |
Yes, 50/100/25 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Arizona |
Yes, 15/30/10 |
No |
No |
No |
Arkansas |
Yes, 25/50/25 |
No |
No |
Yes |
California1 |
Yes, 15/30/5 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Colorado |
Yes, 25/50/15 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Connecticut |
Yes, 20/40/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Delaware |
Yes, 15/30/10 |
Yes |
No
|
Yes |
Florida2 |
Yes, 10/20/10 |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
Georgia |
Yes, 25/50/25 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Hawaii |
Yes, 20/40/10 |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
Idaho |
Yes, 25/50/15 |
No |
No |
No |
Illinois |
Yes, 20/40/15 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Indiana |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Iowa |
Yes, 20/40/15 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Kansas |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
Kentucky |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
Louisiana |
Yes, 10/20/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Maine |
Yes, 50/100/25 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Maryland |
Yes, 20/40/15 |
Yes |
No |
Yes |
Massachusetts |
Yes, 20/40/5 |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
Michigan |
Yes, 20/40/10 |
Yes |
Yes |
No |
Minnesota |
Yes, 30/60/10 |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
Mississippi |
Yes, 10/20/5 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Missouri |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Montana |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Nebraska |
Yes, 25/50/25 |
No |
No |
No |
Nevada |
Yes, 15/30/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
New Hampshire |
No, 25/50/25 |
No |
No |
Yes |
New Jersey3 |
Yes, 15/30/5 |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
New Mexico |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
New York4 |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
North Carolina |
Yes, 30/60/25 |
No |
No |
Yes |
North Dakota |
Yes, 25/50/25 |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
Ohio |
Yes,
12.5/25/7.5 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Oklahoma |
Yes, 10/20/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Oregon |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
Yes |
No |
Yes |
Pennsylvania |
Yes, 15/30/5 |
No |
Yes |
Yes |
Rhode Island |
Yes, 25/50/25 |
No |
No |
Yes |
South Carolina |
No, 15/30/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
South Dakota |
Yes, 25/50/25 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Tennessee |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Texas |
Yes, 20/40/15 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Utah |
Yes, 25/50/15 |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
Vermont |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Virginia |
No, 25/50/20 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Washington |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Washington
D.C. |
Yes, 25/50/10 |
No |
Yes |
Yes |
West Virginia |
Yes, 20/40/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Wisconsin |
No, 25/50/10 |
No |
No |
Yes |
Wyoming |
Yes, 25/50/20 |
No |
No |
Yes |
1
Low-cost policy
minimums for Los Angeles and San Francisco for eligible low-income
drivers in the California Automobile Assigned Risk Plan are 10/20/3,
effective July 1, 2000, to Jan. 1, 2004.
2Only property-damage liability is compulsory.
3Drivers can choose a standard or basic policy. Basic policy
limits are 10/10/5; only property-damage liability is mandatory.
4Liability rises to 50/100 if injury results in death.
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What
Affects the Price of Auto Insurance?
What you pay for auto
insurance varies by company and by:
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What you buy.
Coverages are priced individually so how much you'll pay depends
upon: 1) How much coverages you buy, and 2) How much each will pay.
Deductibles lower the price by shifting part of a loss to you.
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What kind of car you
drive affects how much you pay, since coverage on your vehicle
depends on its value. Generally, the more expensive the car, the
more you pay.
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Where you drive.
Drivers tend to have more losses if they live where there's a high
rate of accidents or vandalism. Generally, urban drivers pay more
for insurance than those in small towns or rural areas.
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How much you drive.
The chance of an accident generally increases as driving increases.
People who use their car for business and long-distance commuting
normally pay more than those who drive less.
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Your age, sex, and
marital status. Accident rates are higher for all drivers under
age 25, especially young males and single males. Insurance prices in
most states reflect these differences.
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Your driving record
also affects price. Drivers who cause accidents generally must pay
more than those who are accident-free for several years.
What can I do to hold
down the cost of my premiums?
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If you're shopping for
a car, consider how your choice will affect premiums. Some insurers
increase premiums for cars more susceptible to damage or occupant
injury, and lower rates for those that fare better than the norm.
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Ask about discounts for
good students, having more than one car insured, accident-free
driving, and others. Please select a state or province to learn more
about the specific discounts available in your area.
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Consider joining a car
or van pool, or finding other transportation to work. If you reduce
your driving mileage enough, you may lower your premiums.
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Drive carefully.
For more in-depth
information, visit
State Farm.
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Nine Ways to Save on Your Policy
The Insurance Information Institute has nine suggestions to help you save on
your auto insurance policies. Auto insurance premiums can vary from company to
company and from coverage to coverage, so be sure to shop around.
1. Comparison
shop.
Use consumer information provided by your state's insurance department.
Where they're available, insure.com has published state insurance
department auto rate guides. These guides tell you what coverages you
need and show you sample rates, usually from th
e biggest companies. Visit
your state's page by choosing your state from the menu at the top of
this page.
2. Ask for
higher deductibles.
When you file a claim, a deductible is the amount of money you pay
before your insurance company kicks in. Higher deductibles mean lower
premiums. For example, increasing your deductible from $200 to $500 on
collision coverage could reduce your cost by as
much as 30 percent.
3. Drop collision
and/or comprehensive coverage on older cars.
If you own a car that's worth less than $1,000, you'll probably pay more
for the coverage than you would ever collect on a claim. Your bank can
tell you how much your car is worth, or check out the Kelley Blue
Book.
4. Buy a
"low-profile" car.
Cars that are expensive to repair or that have a high theft rate
generally have higher insurance costs.
5. Take advantage
of low-mileage discounts.
Some insurance companies offer discounts to drivers who put fewer than a
predetermined number of miles on their vehicles each year.
6. Consider
insurance cost when making a move.
Costs tend to be lowest in rural communities and highest in cities,
where more traffic congestion occurs.
7. Find out about
discounts for automatic seatbelts or air bags.
Your insurance agent should let you know about these discounts when you
purchase your coverage. Most policies give discounts for air bags and
automatic seatbelts.
8. Ask about
antilock brakes.
Some states, including Florida, New Jersey, and New York, require
insurers to give discounts for cars equipped with antilock brakes. Some
insurance companies give the discount no matter where you live.
9. Ask about other
discounts.
Some companies offer discounts for insuring more than one car, also
insuring your home with them (known as a multiline discount), having no
accidents in three years, being a driver over 50, taking driver training
courses, and having antitheft devices. Plus,
remember good-student discounts when you are insuring a teen driver.
For more in-depth information on
auto, health, home and life insurance, visit
insure.com.
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What are My Options?
Deductibles
The deductible is the portion of a covered loss that is your responsibility. The
deductible, when applicable, applies to each covered loss. Although deductibles
vary by state, they are typically available in amounts such as $100, $250, $500,
or $1000.
For example, if you had a
$500 deductible, you would need to pay $500 of the covered loss.
Generally speaking, higher
deductibles lower your premium, but increase the amount you must pay out
of your own pocket if a loss occurs. Ask yourself how much you are
willing to pay in order to save on premium.
Coverages
Coverages are broken down, according to purpose, but are generally
combined into one policy. Coverage descriptions are general information
and not statements of contract because policy provisions, endorsements,
limits and requirements vary by state. The most common coverages are:
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Liability..
When an insured is legally responsible, liability coverage pays for
accidental bodily injury and property damages to others. Bodily
injury damages include medical expenses, pain and suffering, lost
wages, and other special damages. Property damage includes damaged
property and may include loss of use. Liability coverage also pays
defense and court costs. State laws usually determine the minimum
amounts, but higher amounts are available.
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Personal
Injury Protection. Required in some
states. Pays medical expenses for covered persons, regardless of
fault, for treatment due to an auto accident. It may also pay for
rehabilitation, lost earnings, replacement of services (child care
if a parent is disabled, for example) and funeral expenses.
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Medical
Payments. Available in most states. Pays
medical and funeral expenses for covered persons, regardless of
fault, when those expenses are related to an auto accident.
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Collision.
Pays for damage to a covered vehicle caused by collision with
another object or by upset of the car. A deductible is required.
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Comprehensive.
Pays for loss of or damage to a covered vehicle, except loss caused
by collision or upset. Examples include loss caused by fire, wind,
hail, flood, vandalism, theft or impact with an animal. A deductible
may apply.
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Uninsured
Motorist. Pays damages when a covered
person is injured in an auto accident caused by a driver who does
not have liability insurance. In some states this coverage may also
pay for property damage.
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Underinsured
Motorist. Pays damages when a covered
person is injured in an auto accident caused by another driver who
has insufficient liability insurance. Application of this coverage
varies by state and depends upon policy provisions.
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Rental
Reimbursement. Pays expenses incurred for
renting a car when your auto is disabled due to an auto accident.
Daily allowances or limits vary by state or policy provisions.
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Emergency Road
Service. Pays expenses incurred for having
your auto towed as a result of a breakdown. Towing limits vary by
state or policy provisions.
This information is only a
general description of the available coverages and is not a statement of
contract. All coverages are subject to all policy provisions and
applicable endorsements.
Who is covered
under an auto policy?
Your policy usually covers you, your spouse, and other relatives who
live primarily in your household and others who have permission to drive
one of your covered vehicles.
For more in-depth
information, visit
State Farm.
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The
Airbag Controversy - Should You Install an On/Off Switch?
When filing a claim on
your automobile insurance, you should take the following steps:
A simple on/off switch
that will allow you to deactivate air bags can now be installed in
your car. But the simplicity of the hardware is the only
uncomplicated part of the air bag safety issue. Air bags have been
installed in 50 million vehicles over the past nine years and have
been deployed an estimated 1,800,000 times according to the National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHSTA). Air bags were
developed to reduce the injuries and deaths that occur in automobile
collisions by quickly deploying a cushioning bag of air in front of
a person in a vehicle that has become involved in an accident. The
NHSTA has estimated that while there are nearly 42,000 people killed
in automobile accidents every year, air bags have saved an
additional 2,620 people from fatal injuries. The NHSTA came up with
that last figure by comparing the frequency of fatalities in
vehicles with and without airbags.
Along with the positive
data about air bags came some rather disturbing information: some
people were being killed by the very devices that were supposed to
be keeping them alive. Manufacturer installed airbags deploy at
speeds of up to 200 miles an hour, and people sitting too close to
an air bag when it deploys can suffer traumatic injuries. The NHSTA
estimates that airbags have killed 87 people, including 49 children,
since 1990. Children and small adults are at the greatest risk of
sitting too close to a deploying air bag. In addition to the already
mandatory driver side air bags, the devices became mandatory for the
passenger side in 1998. Because the statistics made it obvious that
air bags were a far from perfect traffic safety solution, the
Clinton Administration and Congress began working on new solutions.
New Government
Regulations
In response to the public outcry over airbag-caused deaths, federal
regulators in March of 1997 allowed automakers to install airbags
that were 20 to 35 percent less powerful. In early November of 1997,
the Clinton administration and Congress set a timetable for
requiring advanced airbag technology to better protect all occupants
from the potentially deadly force of a deploying air bag. The
timetable requires the Transportation Department to issue a proposed
standard in mid-1998 for more sophisticated air bag testing that
would lead to the development of more advanced air bags. This new
standard would then be phased in starting with the model year 2001
and ending with the model year 2005. "We want to continue to
experience the benefits of air bags but minimize the injury and
deaths they will cause," Transportation Secretary Rodney Slater told
the Associated Press about the new timetable. "We believe this
agreement will help us do that."
What the government
wants developed are so-called "smart" or "advanced" airbags that
would be able to adjust deployment based on crash severity, occupant
size and position or seat belt use.
While these initiatives
should reduce or eliminate air bag safety problems in the future,
the problem with current air bag systems remained. On Nov. 18, 1997,
the Clinton administration, the auto industry and government
officials announced new rules that would allow certain motorists to
have on/off switches installed for the airbags in their cars.
In unveiling the new
rules, the Clinton administration warned that most motorists should
not disable the air bags because "it is your lifeline in a crash."
Eligibility For
On/Off Switches
So who should consider having their air bag switched off? Under the
new regulations, here are the categories of motorists and passengers
who would be eligible for an air bag deactivating switch:
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Persons with a
medical condition which, according to their physician causes the
driver air bag to pose a special risk for the driver and makes
the potential harm from the driver air bag greater than the harm
from turning off the air bag
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Short drivers who
are not able to maintain a 10-inch distance from the center of
his or her breastbone to the center of the driver air bag cover
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An infant (less
than one year old) who must ride in the front seat because the
vehicle has no rear seat or the rear seat is too small to
accommodate a rear facing seat or the infant has a medical
condition which, according to the infant's physician, makes it
necessary for the infant to ride in the front seat so the driver
can constantly monitor the child's condition
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Children ages 1-12
who must ride in the front seat because the vehicle has no rear
seat or there is no space available in the rear seats or the
child has a medical condition which, according to the child's
physician, makes it necessary for the child to ride in the front
seat so that the driver can constantly monitor the child's
condition
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A passenger with a
medical condition which, according to his or her physician,
causes the passenger air bag to pose a special risk for the
passenger and makes the potential harm from the passenger air
bag in a crash greater than the potential harm from turning off
the air bag and allowing the passenger, even if belted, to hit
the dashboard or windshield in a crash
Persons wishing to
obtain an on/off switch need to follow this four-step process
outlined by the NHTSA:
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Obtain and read the
NHTSA information brochure "Air Bags & On/Off Switches,
Information for an Informed Decision," and a request form. Both
are available at vehicle dealerships, repair shops, state motor
vehicle offices and the NHTSA website.
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Fill out the
request form and send it to NHTSA. Vehicle owners must certify
that they have read the brochure and that they, or someone they
transport in their vehicle, are in one of the four groups of
people at risk
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NHTSA will send an
approval letter to the vehicle owner
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Take the approval
letter to a vehicle dealership or other service outlet to have
an on/off switch installed. The switch that is installed will
only be able to deactivate the air bag(s) that affects the
person in the risk group. The service outlet will inform NHTSA
when the work is done
With the process in
place, the government began issuing brochures and request forms in
December. Government officials reported that very few people were
signing up to get the cutoff switches. The American Automobile
Association reported in early January that only 5,000 motorists had
obtained the permission forms.
"Not a lot of people
have inquired and very few are sending applications," NHTSA
spokesman Bill Combs told the Associated Press.
"We've been pleasantly
surprised at the measured and calm response from the public. Very
few people actually need on/off switches," added NHTSA spokesman Tim
Hurd.
Reluctant Repair
Shops
But for those who have decided that they do need the switch in their
vehicle, there is another problem. Motorists were supposed to be
able to have the switches installed starting on Jan. 19, but many
auto repair shops are refusing to do the work.
A survey of 700 shops
across the nation by the American Automobile Association found that
nearly two-thirds of them are refusing to install the switches for
motorists who request them.
In the association's
informal survey of new car dealerships and other repair shops in 29
states, only 16 percent said they would install the cutoff switches
for motorists with the required authorization papers from the
government. Another 62 percent of the shops said they would not
install the switches and the remaining 22 percent said they are
waiting for additional information from legal advisors or vehicle
manufacturers.
Mark Edwards, managing
director of traffic safety for AAA, told the Associated Press that
repair shops were worried they would be sued if someone was killed
or injured because an airbag was turned off.
The shops cannot be
compelled to install the equipment, so motorists must find a
business willing to do the work. One Minneapolis woman interviewed
by the AAA said she had tried 15 dealerships and none would install
the cutoff equipment. If a motorist can find a business willing to
do the work, the AAA says it will cost about $240 and will take two
hours. Each switch comes with a dashboard light to remind the
motorist when the air bag is turned off.
One thing everyone
agrees on is safety is the utmost concern for all motorists. While
installing an on/off switch can eliminate some problems while we
wait for safer airbags to be developed, another option is to do
everything possible to move persons who could be injured or killed
by airbags away from the devices. Every effort should be made to
keep children and small adults out of the front seats of
automobiles.
It is crucial that
motorist make informed decisions on this issue. There is lots of
information on the internet about airbags. In addition to the NHTSA
site, the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety has information
about the on/off switches.
In addition, there are
many other companies and organizations offering airbag information
and services on the Internet. Typing in "air bag safety" into any
Internet search engine will deliver a long list of potential
resources.
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Aggressive Driving:
Asking for Trouble
Aggressive drivers are
becoming more visible, according to a Media and Injury Prevention
Program at the University of Southern California. "Aggressive driving is
now the most common way of driving," says co-director Sandra Ball-Rokeach.
"It's not just a few crazies- - it's a subculture of driving." A recent
study by the Automobile Association of America (AAA) revealed that 44
percent of drivers in Washington, DC, worry more about aggressive
drivers than about drunken drivers. Stories of aggressive drivers
chasing, punching or shooting their victims are common. But you might
avoid becoming a victim if you know how to remain calm and avoid acting
upon your feelings. Sure, people cut you off, honk their horns or pass
you on the right, but reacting angrily only makes matters worse. Results
can be deadly.
Are You an Aggressive
Driver?
Do you:
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Speed up when someone
tries to pass you?
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Tailgate people who are
going slower than you?
-
Weave in and out of
traffic?
-
Pass cars on the right?
-
Flash your headlights
at vehicles?
-
Overuse your horn?
-
Make obscene gestures?
-
Yell out your window at
people?
-
Race for a position on
the highway?
The National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration considers some of these behaviors
aggressive. So next time, think twice before doing any of these things.
Safety and Preventative
Measures
If you encounter an
aggressive driver, remember these tips:
-
Don't block the passing
lane.
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Avoid blocking the
right-hand turn lane.
-
Don't take more than
one parking space.
-
Don't tailgate.
-
Don't stop in the road
to talk with a pedestrian or other drivers.
-
If you travel slowly,
pull over to allow traffic to pass you.
-
Avoid eye contact with
an aggressive driver.
-
Keep your eyes on the
road.
-
Keep away from erratic
drivers.
-
Don't challenge other
drivers by speeding up to hold your own in your travel lane.
-
Ignore gestures; do not
return them.
Aggressive Driving Facts
The National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) says, about 66 percent of all
traffic fatalities annually are caused by aggressive driving behaviors,
such as passing on the right, running red lights and tailgating.
At least 20 percent of
adults have hostility levels serious enough to be a health hazard.
(Source: USA TODAY)
Aggressive driving
incidents are defined as events in which an angry or impatient driver
tries to kill or injure another driver after a traffic dispute. (Source:
U.S. News & World Report)
Aggressive driving
incidents have risen by 51 percent since 1990. And 37 percent of these
incidents involved firearms. (Source: U.S. News & World Report)
The number of drivers on
the road is increasing. As of 1990, 91 percent of people drove to work.
Commuters in one-third of
the largest cities spent well over 40 hours a year in traffic jams.
(Source: U.S. News & World Report)
Aggressive driving may be
on the upswing, so remember not to panic and avoid confrontations when
possible.
For more in-depth
information, visit
State Farm.
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Cell Phone Use May Dial Up Crashes
A new study, released
in February 1997 by the New England Journal of Medicine, might have
you putting some distance between yourself and drivers busy talking
on their cell phone. University of Toronto researchers discovered:
The main factor in most
motor vehicle collisions is driver inattentiveness.
According to the
Cellular Telecommunications Industry Association (CTIA), there are
100 million wireless subscribers today, which is more than 36
percent of the United States population. While convenient, using
cell phones while driving can be hazardous. The American Automobile
Association offers these tips:
-
Make sure your
phone is mounted where you can easily reach it while driving.
The phone should be within comfortable reach in your usual
driving position and as close as possible to your line of
vision.
-
Know all the
operations of your cellular phone, and learn to use it without
looking.
-
Keep your attention
on the road by programming frequently called numbers into the
phone's memory to minimize dialing.
-
Dial sensibly. Wait
for a stop light, pull off the road to dial, or ask a passenger
to dial for you.
-
Don't use your
cellular phone in distracting traffic situations. Pull off the
road to make a call.
-
Be careful about
where you stop to make calls.
-
When calling 911 to
report an emergency, be prepared to provide the closest major
cross streets or off-ramps, and know your cellular phone number.
-
Use your voice mail
to take calls or leave yourself messages. Never take notes while
driving.
-
Disconnect your
cellular phone when using jumper cables; the power surge could
burn out your phone.
A few states actually
regulate cell phone use, including California, Florida,
Massachusetts, Oklahoma and Minnesota. Oklahoma and Minnesota
require police to include cell phone information in accident
reports. Several countries prohibit cell phone use while driving
including England, Switzerland, Spain, Australia and Italy.
Police suggest calling
911 from your cellular phone only in true emergencies:
Emergencies
-
Unreported
collisions
-
Any
life-threatening event
-
Any crime against
you or another person
-
A vehicle or object
blocking traffic lanes
-
A suspected drunk
driver
Non-emergencies (Do not use 911)
-
A stalled vehicle
off the roadway
-
A broken-down
vehicle that is not a hazard
-
Winter road
conditions
-
A stolen vehicle
when nothing is known about the suspected thief
-
Asking for
directions
-
Testing your phone
When you dial
911, the call from your cellular phone is routed to the appropriate
emergency response authority.
You must be prepared to
provide:
For more
in-depth information, visit
State Farm.
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Tips
It's traumatic enough to be in an
automobile accident, but imagine finding out that the accident is no
accident.
The NICB recommends the following tips
for consumers to protect themselves from staged vehicle collisions:
- When driving, look beyond the car
in front of you. If you see traffic slowing, apply the brake. Do not
wait for the car directly ahead of you to brake first.
- Allow ample space between your car
and the car ahead of you so there is time to react to a sudden stop.
As a rule, your car should be one car length back for every ten
miles an hour traveled. For example, a car traveling 60 miles an
hour should be six car lengths back.
- Be especially careful when turning
into a lane that allows for two vehicles to turn left
simultaneously. People committing staged collisions often prey on
cars that cross the center line, purposely sideswiping the victim's
car.
- If you are in a collision, count
the number of passengers in the other car. If possible, get their
names, telephone numbers and driver's license numbers. Often more
people will file claims than were actually in the car.
- Call the police to the scene and
get a police report with the police officer's name, even if the
damage is negligible. If the report describes damage to the
claimant's car as a nick, it is harder for them to damage the car
later and try to collect a larger claim.
- Carry a disposable camera in your
glove compartment. Take as many pictures of the other car and its
passengers as possible.
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Children and Seatbealts
Do's
- Do restrain your child
appropriately for his or her age, weight and height.
- Do follow directions that come with
the child safety seat, as well as the child passenger restraint
directions in your vehicle's owner's manual.
Don'ts
- Don't put your child in the front
seat. Children 12 and under should sit in the back seat
appropriately restrained.
- Don't place a child in front of an
airbag because they are made to protect adults, not children.
Children 12 and under should ride in the back seat, away from air
bags.
Until 20 pounds and 1 year old:
- Use rear-facing infant seat or
rear-facing convertible seat.
- Put the car seat carrying handles
down on the infant seat.
- Route harness straps in lower
slots, at or below shoulder level.
- Fasten harness clip at armpit
level.
- Never place a rear-facing infant in
the front seat with an airbag.
- Keep harness straps snug.
- Install child passenger restraint
at no greater than a 45-degree angle.
20 to 40 pounds and more than 1
year old:
- Use forward-facing car seat.
- Route harness straps in upper
slots, at or above shoulder level.
- Fasten harness clips at armpit
level.
- Keep harness straps snug.
40 to 80 pounds and less than 4
feet 9 inches tall:
- Use a forward-facing, belt
positioning booster seat with lap and shoulder seat belt.
- Place shoulder strap over the
shoulder and snug across the chest.
- Place lap belt low and tight on
hips, NOT over stomach.
- Make sure shoulder strap is never
across the neck, face or arm.
More than 80 pounds, more than
4 feet 9 inches tall (once belt-positioning booster seat is outgrown):
- Use a lap and shoulder seat belt.
- Shoulder belt fits over the
shoulder and across the chest.
- Lap belt should fit low and tight
on hips, NOT over stomach.
- Shoulder belt should NEVER be
placed under arms or behind back.
For more in-depth information,
visit State Farm.
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What To Do When
Your Auto Insurer Totals Your Car
What happens when a traffic accident
devastates your car? It's not a scenario most drivers want to think
about. Still, it's one you should consider before it happens,
especially if you're shopping around for an auto insurance company.
Most of us use the term "total"
in casual conversation, as in, "Man, did you hear Dinkins totalled his
car driving back from the party last Saturday?" When you total
something, you wreck it completely. That's not too far from the
insurance industry's definition of a totalled car: When you total your
car — or when someone else does — you cause so much damage to the car
that it would cost more to fix it than what it's actually worth.
It sounds as though your car would have
to suffer some major damage in order for an insurance company to total
it, but it's actually a function of the car's worth. Minor damage to a
15-year-old Buick might result in totaling the car, while major damage
to a brand-new Saab might not. Auto insurance claims adjusters usually
determine a car's actual cash value by using their company's proprietary
database of prices. Generally speaking, insurers use the National
Auto Dealers Association (NADA) Official Used Car Guide or the
Kelley Blue Book as secondary sources only.
But what if you don't agree with your
insurance company's assessment of the damages? What if you really love
your car and you don't want them to take it away? Do you have any
recourse?
Yes and no. When you buy an auto policy,
you sign a contract with your insurance company. You can't force your
insurer to pay out more than your car is worth: That's part of the
contract. But, as Bob Hunter of the Consumer Federation of America says,
you're supposed to be "made whole" by your insurer. "You should be put
back into relatively the same spot that you were before the accident,"
Hunter tells insure.com.
Where Are They Taking My
Baby?
If the cost of repairing your car
exceeds a percentage of the insurance company's estimates of its worth,
your car is a total loss. Some company total vehicles at 51 percent of
its actual worth; some total at 80 percent. The insurance company will
pay you
the car's actual cash value, minus any
deductible on your coverage. Then the car goes to a salvage yard, where
it's auctioned off to the highest bidder and usually chopped up for
parts. The insurance company keeps whatever money it got for the car in
salvage.
Putting It In Perspective
About 10 percent of collision claims in the United States result in the
cars being totalled, according to Larry Costin at CCC Information
Services, a company that tracks auto claims for the insurance industry.
There are approximately 20 million accidents each year, and
approximately 2 million total losses.
As another example, State Farm insures
about 37 million cars. It estimates that it totals about 500,000 cars a
year in auto claims.
If your car is a total loss but you want
to have it repaired anyway, you should be able to retain it. Your
insurer still has to pay you the car's actual cash value, minus the
deductible and minus what the company would have gotten for it at the
salvage yard. You should let your claims adjuster know up front that you
want to keep the car. You're then going to have to pay for the repairs
yourself.
Make sure you think your decision
through. If you decide to give up your car but then you change your
mind, you're going to have hard time buying it back at auction.
"There's really no need to give the car
to the salvage yard and have the insured go through [the auction]
process when we can just turn it over to the insured directly," says
Mike Treviņo, a spokesperson for USAA. However, you may not be so lucky
with your company. Sharon Frazier, a spokesperson for State Farm, the
nation's largest automobile insurer, says that the company looks at each
situation on a case-by-case basis. If your car is a newer model and its
parts would fetch a lot on the auction block, your auto insurance
company may decide to send it to salvage despite your protests.
License To Buy
In most states, your car is gone for good once it goes to auction.
Regulations vary, but in many places you won't even be able to attend
the auction without a special license for auto salvagers or auto
dealers. It's good to call the auction house beforehand to see if you
will need a license in order to bid on your car.
If you do get your car back from your
insurer, you'll be left with a badly damaged car and only a fraction of
the money needed to repair it. "You could do it that way but you've got
to be realistic," says Hunter. If the car is really beyond repair,
you'll be left with a carcass of a car and a check that's not quite
enough to buy you a new one.
If the car is repairable, make sure you
have all the necessary work done. Insurers can refuse to completely
cover a car that's been totaled if it hasn't passed a department of
motor vehicle inspection — often a necessary step in getting your car
back on the road. As long as it passes DMV inspection, however, you
should have no problem buying liability insurance. Physical damage
coverage — comprehensive and collision insurance — is a different story.
Some insurers won't sell you physical damage coverage if you're driving
a previously totalled car. (For more about the inspection process, turn
to "Inside the insurance auto-auction pipeline" at
insure.com.)
David Smolensky of the National
Association of Independent Insurers offers this sage advice: "Move on.
The car's been totaled."
The Price Is Wrong
Hunter says the majority of the complaints he hears are not from people
who want their old, crashed cars back, but from people whose insurance
companies didn't give them enough money to buy a similar car. "If I had
a five-year-old Toyota Cressida, I have a right to get a five-year-old
Toyota Cressida with comparable miles and comparable options," Hunter
explains. However, your insurance company's estimate of what that
comparable car will cost may differ from the realities of the
marketplace.
If you don't agree with your insurer's
estimate of your car's actual cash value, you can choose to bring in an
independent appraiser — probably at your own expense. "It could be that
two or three appraisers are brought in," says Frazier of State Farm. "If
one appraiser is $2,000 apart from the other, you'll need another one to
come in to settle the matter."
Bring In The Lawyers
If negotiating with the insurance
company brings no results, you do have two more options: arbitration and
litigation. Arbitration is a process for settling complaints that's less
of a hassle than actual litigation. It can be binding or nonbinding;
with nonbinding arbitration, you can still take the matter to court if
you're not satisfied.
Hunter cautions that arbitration — while
less costly and time-consuming than a lawsuit — is more likely to go in
favor of the insurance company. "You're always at a disadvantage when
you take it to arbitration because [the insurance companies] have more
practice with it," he says. Arbiters have to deal with these insurance
companies all the time, so they're not likely to want to get the
companies steamed, he adds. You can bring an attorney with you to
arbitration, which may increase the odds of a satisfactory outcome for
you.
While landing in a courtroom over a
totaled-vehicle settlement isn't very likely, knowing your options is an
advantage that consumer advocates continually stress: "An informed
consumer is the best defense against unfair settlement practices."
For more
in-depth information on auto, health, home and life insurance, visit
insure.com.
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Vehicle Fraud: The Schemes
Report:
In many cases, the real criminal in vehicle theft
scenarios is the vehicle's true owner.
Scheme: Owner Give-Up
This scheme occurs when a vehicle owner orchestrates the destruction
of his or her vehicle to collect on an insurance policy. The
reportedly "stolen" car is often found completely burned in a
secluded area, submerged in a lake or buried beneath the earth. In
general, owner give-ups are usually motivated by the need for cash,
a desire to avoid the hassle of selling, vehicle mechanical problems
or an inability to meet car and insurance payments.
Case: The Compost Cadillac
Acting on a tip forwarded to the NICB by a member company,
investigators dug through a 400-ton pile of tree clippings to
recover a stolen 1988 Cadillac Allante. Ironically, the owner of
the compost yard had reported this vehicle stolen in July 1992
and collected $24,000 from his insurance company.
Scheme: 30-Day Special
Owners will report a vehicle is stolen and then hide it for 30 days
-- just long enough for the insurance claim to be paid. Once the
claim is paid, the vehicle is often found abandoned. The claimant
uses the insurance money to purchase a higher-quality vehicle, and
the insurance company becomes the new owner of the lemon car. The
30-day special may be perpetrated by owners whose vehicles need
extensive repairs.
Case: Looking High and
Looking "Lo"
In another NICB stolen car caper, a man reported his Corvette
stolen. Little did he know when he bought the used Corvette that
the previous owner had installed LoJack tracking device. The
police located the car within an hour... parked in the garage of
his best friend.
Scheme: Export Fraud
A fraud artist purchases or rents an expensive vehicle, insures it
to the fullest extent, then sells it through an overseas
conspirator. The owner reports it stolen to a U.S. law enforcement
agency. Not only does the owner collect on the insurance policy, he
or she typically receives two to three times the vehicle's American
value from the overseas market. It's the insurance company that ends
up covering the loss.
Case: The Stolen
Luxuries
A San Francisco couple was recently arrested for allegedly
shipping more than 100 stolen luxury cars to the Far East. They
allegedly rented a brand new Lexus with extensive insurance
coverage and thirteen days later reported to police that the
$60,000 vehicle had vanished. An investigation later revealed
the Lexus had actually been packed in an overseas shipping
container and prepared for shipment to Hong Kong. Investigators
believe the couple planned to ship the vehicle out of the United
States before ever reporting it stolen.
Scheme: Phantom Vehicles
This occurs when an individual uses phony ownership documents to
secure insurance on a vehicle. The insured will then report the
vehicle stolen and try to collect the insurance money. Often antique
or luxury vehicles will be used, since the more valuable the car,
the larger the insurance claim settlement.
Case: A Classic Case
With Classic Cars
In Pulaski, Tennessee, a retired Navy doctor had received
$270,000 from his insurance company when he claimed his prized
collection of nine classic cars, was stolen from a storage
facility. A little over zealous, the doctor claimed (with a
second insurance company) that his tools were stolen along with
the cars. The receipts for the tools turned out to be phony; and
so did some of the registration information on the cars.
Scheme: Scapegoat Theft
Sometimes an individual will claim to be a vehicle theft victim to
avoid criminal prosecution for another crime. For example, a vehicle
owner who has hit a parked car or telephone pole may abandon the
vehicle and report it stolen to avoid paying for the damages caused.
Picture This:
NICB investigators have seen "stolen" cars dredged up from ponds
or quarries with the ice scraper still holding the gas pedal
down.
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Vehicle Theft Prevention Devices
Protecting Your Vehicle
Professional car thieves can steal any car, but make them work for
yours. The National Insurance Crime Bureau recommends common sense and a
layered combination of anti-theft devices to thwart thieves.
All vehicle theft prevention equipment
helps deter criminals. Many anti-theft devices are also effective in
protecting your vehicle from burglaries and vandalism.
Steering Wheel Lock:
A long metal bar with a lock that fits on the
steering wheel and is designed to prevent the steering wheel from being
turned. Also acts as a visual deterrent for thieves looking in car
windows.
Average Cost:
$25 to $100
Benefits:
Inexpensive way to keep would-be thieves away.
Especially good device to use when layering protection.
Car Alarms:
The typical car alarm is equipped with motion sensors,
impact sensors and a loud siren or series of tones in the 120-decibel
range.
Average Cost:
$150 to $1,000
Benefits:
The best alarms arm themselves automatically when you
leave the vehicle and include an automatic kill switch. The best
models also flash the headlights and honk the horn in addition to
sounding a siren.
Kill Switches:
Kill switches prevent the flow of electricity or fuel to
the engine until the switch is activated. Starter disablers are also
growing in popularity.
Average Cost:
$10 to $125
Benefits:
It's a hidden switch that needs to be flipped on for the car to
start. For their effectiveness as a security device, kill switches
are for the most part inexpensive and easy to install.
Electronic Tracking Devices:
An electronic transmitter hidden in the vehicle which emits a signal
that is picked up by the police or a monitoring station.
Average Cost:
$400 to $1,500
Benefits:
Very effective in helping authorities recover vehicles before they
can be stripped or chopped up.
Electronic Keys:
Some car manufacturers have pre-installed electronic anti-theft systems
that allow the vehicle to operate only with a correctly coded key.
Average Cost:
Standard item in some models.
Benefits:
Systems are virtually invisible to thieves, easy to use and
reliable.
Steering Column Armored
Collars: Collars prevent thieves from breaking
into the steering column to hot-wire the vehicle. Some are installed
permanently and others must be installed manually each time the driver
leaves the vehicle.
Average Cost:
$100 to $200 installed
Benefits:
The collar provides an excellent line of defense for vehicles which
can be easily stolen by breaking open the steering wheel column.
Tire Locks:
Similar to the circular steel "boots" used by many larger city police
departments, tire locks make the car nearly impossible to move. The tire
locks are also effective in deterring would-be thieves.
Average Cost:
$80 to $200
Benefits:
Greatly hampers thieves who are looking to make a quick getaway. Not
only is the tire lock a strong visual deterrent, but it also
provides a formidable challenge for would-be car thieves.
Window Etching:
Etching the vehicle identification number onto the window as well as
other parts of the car discourages thieves from taking the vehicle and
also aids in recovering the vehicle if it is stolen.
Average Cost:
$20 to $100 (Some vehicle theft prevention groups provide etching
for free.)
Benefits:
Chop shop rings thrive on vehicles that have easily removable VINs
or none etched on at all. By etching the VIN on important parts of
the vehicle, you make your vehicle less attractive to thieves.
Theft-Deterrent Decals:
Typical decals identify the vehicle is protected by either an alarm
system or national theft prevention company.
Average Cost:
$2 to $5
Benefits:
Inexpensive way to bluff a car thief.
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Vehicle Theft Prevention:
Consumer Habits
Report:
According to a NICB/Gallup study, 1 in 10 Americans
surveyed have been victimized by vehicle theft.
Don't Become a Statistic
- Close your windows, lock your doors
and take the keys with you.
- Park with front wheels turned
sharply toward the curb and apply your emergency brake to discourage
towing.
- Activate any anti-theft devices you
may have. Better yet, install a device that is passive,
automatically activating itself a short time after the key is
removed.
- Put all packages and personal items
out of sight. Items left in the open invite theft.
- Drive in the center lane when on
highways. This reduces your chances on becoming a bump-and-run theft
victim.
- Use your garage at home. Lock both
your vehicle and the garage.
- Don't park on the outskirts of a
shopping center, motel or other parking lots. Park near the
entrance, especially if you will be leaving your car unattended for
an extended period.
- Etch your vehicle identification
number in hard-to-find spots, using an engraver or dye marker. Hide
business cards or address labels on the bottom of floor mats and
under the seat, and drop them down window channels into the door
interior.
presented by the
National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB)
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Additional Insured
or Additional Interest
A person or an organization, other than the named insured or covered
person, who is protected under the named insured's auto policy. If an
auto is leased, the leasing company may want to be listed as an
Additional Insured as well as a lien holder or loss payee. This protects
the leasing company if it's named in a lawsuit for an accident caused by
a policyholder.
Anti-Theft Device
Devices designed either to reduce the chance an auto will be vandalized
or stolen, or assist in its recovery. Examples include car alarms,
keyless entry, starter disablers, motion detectors, parts of the vehicle
etched with the Vehicle Identification Number, and recovery systems.
Assigned Risk
A risk not ordinarily acceptable to insurers which is, according to
state law, assigned to insurers participating in a plan in which the
insurers agree to accept their share of these risks.
Automobile Insurance
A form of insurance that protects against losses involving autos.
Different types are available depending on the needs and wants of those
buying policies. Examples of coverage types include: bodily injury
liability, property damage liability, medical payments, and collision
and comprehensive coverage for physical damage to the insured's vehicle.
Automobile Insurance Plans
The name for "assigned risk" plans. These are plans set up and monitored
by the state to help people who are unable to secure auto insurance
through standard insurance carriers. See Assigned Risk.
Choose a Letter
Basic Auto Policy
Although still used today to insure substandard risks, two-wheel
motorized vehicles, and commercial autos, the Basic Auto Policy has been
primarily replaced by the Personal Auto Policy, which combines both
physical damage coverage and liability insurance for claims arising out
of the ownership or use of a vehicle.
Basic Limits of Liability
The least amount of liability coverage that can be purchased, which is
generally equivalent to the minimum amount required by state law. In
determining rates, a carrier will use the basic limits to develop the
base rates. If an insured person wants higher limits, the carrier
applies an increased limits factor to the base rate in calculating the
new premium for the increased coverage.
Bodily Injury Liability
Legal liability for causing physical injury or death to another.
Choose a Letter
Collision Insurance
This covers loss to the insured person's own auto caused by its
collision with another vehicle or object.
Combined Single Limit
Bodily Injury and Property Damage coverage expressed as one single
amount of coverage.
Commission
That portion of the premium paid to the agent as compensation for the
agent's services.
Comprehensive Coverage
Covers damage to a vehicle caused by an event other than a collision or
overturn. Examples include fire, theft, vandalism, and falling objects.
Continuous Coverage or
Continuous Liability Insurance
Continuous coverage refers to the length of time you have maintained
insurance on your vehicle.
Covered Person
This refers to the individuals (named insured, spouse, resident
relatives, etc.) insured under a policy contract.
Customized Equipment/Special
Equipment
Items not included in standard insurance options available for cars.
These may include extra electronic equipment, special paint or exterior
items, or amenities added to the inside of a van or truck.
Choose a Letter
Deductible
The amount an insured person must pay before the insurance company pays
the remainder of each covered loss, up to the policy limits.
Defensive Driver Course
These are classes either offered through or approved by Departments of
Motor Vehicles to enhance driving skills. These courses may make drivers
eligible for discounts on their premiums. Courses taken for traffic
school because of a moving violation are not eligible.
Drive-Other-Car Endorsement
Optional coverage that broadens the definition of a covered auto to
include non-owned vehicles the insured person operates.
Driver Education
State accredited educational course that consist of at least 30 hours of
professional classroom instruction.
Driver Training
State accredited training course that consists of at least six hours of
behind-the-wheel professional instruction.
Choose a Letter
Earned Premium
The portion of a premium that has been "used up" during a policy term.
With a one-year policy, half of the total premium has been earned after
six months.
Effective Date/Inception Date
The date that coverage begins on an insurance policy.
Expiration Date
The date your coverage ends. There is usually a time of day associated
with this date, for example, an expiration date of 5/1/2002 at 12:01am.
This means your coverage ends one minute after midnight on the date
listed.
Extended Non-Owner Liability
An endorsement that provides broader liability coverage for specifically
named people operating any non-owned automobile or trailer. It covers
non-owned autos, use of autos to carry people or property for a fee, and
individuals driving employer-furnished cars who do not own vehicles
themselves.
Choose a Letter
Family Automobile
Policy
Now replaced by the Personal Auto Policy, the Family Auto Policy was a
package policy in which both liability and physical damage protection to
an insured's vehicle was offered under one policy.
Financial Ratings
Financial ratings reflect a rating organization's opinion on the
financial strength and ability to meet ongoing obligations to
policyholders. The ratings organizations most commonly identified with
the insurance industry are AM Best, Standard & Poor's and Moody's.
Financial Responsibility Laws
Financial responsibility laws require owners and operators of autos to
maintain enough money to compensate those they injure. Liability
insurance is the most common way to satisfy these requirements.
First Party Benefits
This pays policyholders and others covered by the policy in the event of
injury, no matter who caused the accident. The benefits can include
medical expenses, loss of income, funeral and death benefits. This may
also be called Personal Injury Protection.
Choose a Letter
Gap Insurance
If you are making lease or loan payments and you experience a total
loss, there may be a difference (gap) between the market value of your
vehicle and what you still owe on it. This optional coverage pays the
difference.
Good Student Discount
A premium discount for students with high scholastic grades. Some
statistical research has shown a relationship between good grades and
safe driving.
Choose a Letter
Hit and Run
An accident caused by someone who does not stop to assist or provide
information.
Choose a Letter
ID Card
An identification card issued by your insurance company that provides
evidence of liability insurance. Such evidence is required in most
states.
Choose a Letter
Lapse in
Coverage/Policy Lapse
A point in time when a policy has been canceled or terminated for
failure to pay the premium, or when the policy contract is void for
other reasons.
Lender/Lessor
Your lender is the institution to which you make car payments.
Your lessor is the institution to which you make your lease payments.
Loss Payee/Lien holder
A person or entity with a legally secured insurable interest in
another's property, usually a financial institution that loaned money to
buy a car. The car is the loan collateral. If the auto is damaged in an
accident, loss payments will be made to you and to the loss payee on
your policy.
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Medical Payments
This pays for medical and funeral expenses incurred in an auto accident,
regardless of fault. It will also cover injuries sustained by passengers
in your car, or while you're operating someone else's car (with their
permission), in addition to injuries you or your family members incur
when you're pedestrians.
Multi-car discount
A discount offered by some insurance companies for those with more than
one vehicle insured on the same policy. In some cases, if you drive a
company car insured by your company, your own insurance company may give
you the multi-car discount.
MVR - Motor Vehicle Record
A motor vehicle record, also referred to as DL printout, or MVR,
contains information obtained from an individual's driver license
application, abstracts of convictions and accidents.
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Named Insured
Any person, firm or corporation designated by name as the insured
person(s) in a policy. Others may be protected by policy definition even
though their names aren't on the policy, such as other drivers operating
(with consent) the named insured's covered auto.
Named Non-Owner Policy
A policy endorsement for one who operates any non-owned automobile on a
regular basis, such as driving a car provided by one's employer.
No-Fault Insurance
Many states have enacted auto accident compensation laws permitting auto
accident victims to collect directly from their own insurance companies
for medical and hospital expenses regardless of who was at fault in the
accident. Although there are many legal variations of no-fault
insurance, most states still allow people to sue the negligent party if
the amount of damages exceeds a certain state-determined threshold. (see
"Threshold Level.")
Non-Owned Auto
Any vehicle that is not owned, borrowed, or leased by the insured, and
which is used primarily for a business purpose.
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Per Occurrence
Limit
This refers to the cap amount an insurance company will pay for all
claims arising from a single incident. In an automobile accident, it
comprises bodily injuries sustained by all parties. When Bodily Injury
coverage is purchased in split limits, the second limit is the "per
occurrence" limit: e.g. $100,000(per person)/$300,000(per occurrence)
Per Person Limit
This refers to the cap amount an insurance company will pay for any one
person's injuries arising from a single incident. In an automobile
accident, it comprises bodily injuries sustained by each person. When
Bodily Injury is purchased in split limits, the first limit is the "per
person" limit: e.g. $100,000(per person)/$300,000(per occurrence)
Personal Auto Policy
The most common auto insurance policy sold today. Often referred to as
"PAP," this policy is written in simple wording and provides coverage
for liability, medical payments, uninsured/underinsured motorist
coverage, and physical damage protection.
Personal Injury Protection
The name usually given to no-fault benefits in states that have enacted
mandatory or optional no-fault auto insurance laws. Personal Injury
Protection (PIP) usually includes benefits for medical expenses, loss of
income from work, essential services, accidental death, funeral
expenses, and survivor benefits.
Physical Damage
Damage to your covered vehicle from perils including (but not limited
to) collision or upset with another vehicle object, fire, vandalism and
theft.
Policy
The written documents of a contract for insurance between the insurance
company and the insured. Such documents include forms, endorsements,
riders and attachments.
Policy Period
The period of time in which a policy is in effect. (For example, six
months or one year).
Policyholder
One who maintains ownership in an insurance policy. This may refer to
the policy owner or those covered under the policy. See also Named
Insured.
Preferred Risk
Any risk considered to be better than the standard risk on which the
premium rate was calculated.
Premium
The price of insurance an insured person pays for a specified risk for a
specified period of time.
Private Passenger Automobile
A four-wheeled motor vehicle that is subject to motor vehicle
registration and used for private personal use.
Pro Rata Cancellation
Termination of an insurance contract before the policy expiration date
on which the premium returned to the insured person is adjusted in
proportion to the amount of time the policy was in effect.
Property Damage Liability
Insurance
Protection against liability for damage to another's tangible property,
including loss of use. Although this coverage is different than
liability for bodily injury to another person, Bodily Injury and
Property Damage Liability protection are generally written together.
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Renewal
The process of keeping an active policy in force through the issuance of
a renewal policy.
Rental Reimbursement
This optional coverage will reimburse you for a rental car if your
vehicle is disabled due to a covered loss. This coverage will pay all or
part of your rental car costs.
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Safe Driver Plan
A rating system that assigns points for traffic convictions and certain
accidents. Similar to a merit-rating plan, each point increases the
surcharge percentage to the baseline rates.
Short Rate Cancellation
A policy termination in which the refunded premium is not proportional
to the amount of time remaining in the policy period due to the fixed
expenses incurred by the company. The insured will generally pay more
for each day of coverage than if the policy had remained in force
throughout the entire policy period.
Split Limit
Any insurance coverage with separately stated limits for different types
of coverage. Example: an automobile liability policy of 100/300/50
provides a maximum of $100,000 bodily injury coverage per person,
$300,000 bodily injury coverage per accident, and a property damage
limit of $50,000 per accident.
Stacking of Limits
The application of more than one policy limit to the same loss or
occurrence. In some jurisdictions, courts have required stacking of
limits when multiple policies, or multiple policy periods, cover an
occurrence. For example, Uninsured motorist bodily injury limits of
$100,000/300,000 on two policies owned by the same person may be added
together to pay a loss. In this event, the total amount of coverage
available for an accident would be $200,000/600,000.
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Term
The length of time for which a policy or bond is in force.
Threshold Level
Under some no-fault insurance laws, the threshold level represents the
degree of injury a claimant must establish before being allowed to sue
the negligent party. The threshold may be verbal (regarding the severity
of the injuries) or a dollar amount ($10,000), or both. For example,
with a threshold of $5,000, an injured person may sue if his/her
injuries and other economic damages (rehabilitation expenses, loss of
income, etc.) exceed $5,000.
Tort
A private wrong or harm (other than a breach of contract) committed
against another, resulting in legal liability. A tort is either
intentional or accidental (negligent). Automobile liability insurance is
purchased to protect one from suits arising from unintentional torts.
Tort Feasor
One who commits a tort.
Towing and Labor Costs
This endorsement, which is added to the physical damage coverage,
provides reimbursement up to a specified limit to tow your vehicle or
pay for on-site labor costs.
Transportation Expenses
Subject to a daily and maximum dollar limit, this coverage (under the
physical damage portion of an automobile policy) pays for transportation
expenses incurred by the named insured only in the event of theft of an
entire covered auto. Coverage generally begins after a stated minimum
waiting period.
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Uninsured Motorists
Bodily Injury
Uninsured motorists bodily injury coverage (which must be offered in
most states) pays for a covered person's bodily injuries of which an
uninsured or hit-and-run motorist is legally liable, but unable to pay.
Underinsured Motorists Bodily
Injury
Underinsured motorists bodily injury coverage (which must be offered in
most states) pays for a covered person's bodily injuries of which a
person with not enough insurance is legally liable.
Uninsured Motorists Property
Damage
Uninsured Motorist Property Damage Liability coverage pays for property
damages caused by uninsured drivers.
Unearned Premium
The portion of your premium remaining on your policy term. For example,
with a six-month premium, at the end of the first month of the premium
period, five-sixths of the premium is unearned by the insurance company.
Unsatisfied Judgment Fund
Some states have established laws to reimburse those injured in auto
accidents that have been unable to collect from the responsible party.
Usage
This refers to the primary function or purpose in which you intend to
operate your vehicle. For example, if you primarily drive your car to
and from work, the usage is considered "commute; "if you're
self-employed and you primarily drive to see customers, the usage is
considered "business;" if you're retired, your usage is considered
"pleasure."
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VIN Vehicle
Identification Number
A Vehicle Identification Number is a 17-digit alpha-numeric code that
provides valuable information concerning the vehicle's serial number,
make, model, options, and year in official records (like a Social
Security number for your car).
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Waiver of Collision
Deductible
This option pays your collision deductible when you carry collision
coverage on a vehicle that is damaged by an uninsured or hit-and-run
motorist who is at fault. Coverage applies only when there is actual
physical contact and when you can identify the uninsured driver or
vehicle.
Whole Dollar Premium
Generally, insurance premiums are rounded to the nearest dollar; an
amount of 51 cents or more being rounded up to the next dollar, and any
amount less than that being dropped
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